(Photo courtesy of Adam Berkelmans)
December 11, 2024
By Adam Berkelmans
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Talk about comfort food! Cabbage rolls are a staple in many cuisines (there are over 40 official versions from different countries, let alone family to family) and for good reason; they’re homey, filling, nutritious, and above all, tasty as all get out.
I made my version using a ground wild game that you probably haven’t seen inside a cabbage roll before—Canada goose. I found that the goose meat adds a nice rich flavor without any of the gaminess or off-flavors that people often associate with goose meat and goes very well in a dish like this.
I also added a few little touches and techniques to amp up the flavor that may not be quite traditional. Babcia might not approve, but I think they elevate the dish in a subtly positive way.
Serves: (makes about 12 rolls)Prep Time: 45 minsCook Time: 20 mins
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Ingredients: (For the Rolls and Sauce)
1/2 cup raw white rice 1 lb ground goose 3 thick-cut slices bacon, minced 1/4 cup stock with gelatin 1 cup breadcrumbs 1/4-1/2 cup milk or buttermilk (enough to soak the breadcrumbs) 2 medium onion, grated 5 cloves garlic, minced 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons minced parsley 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 cup goose or chicken stock 23 oz tomato passata or plain tomato sauce 1/2 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon white sugar 1 tablespoon fish sauce (optional) 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional) 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar (Photo courtesy of Adam Berkelmans) Directions:
(for the filling) Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Core the cabbage by making incisions around the core and yanking it out, then immerse the whole cabbage in the boiling water. As it cooks, use tongs to slide leaves off of the cabbage, until you’ve removed enough leaves or the last leaves of the cabbage are too small. Pour some of the water into a medium pot, enough to fill by 3/4, and add the rice. Boil the rice for 10 minutes, then drain and let the rice cool. Meanwhile, mix the breadcrumbs and milk in a large bowl. If 1/4 cup isn’t enough to soak the bread, add more, little by little until the bread can barely absorb any more. Add the ground goose, bacon, stock, onion, garlic, egg yolk, parsley, salt, and pepper to the bowl and mix so that everything is combined. Try not to over-mix. Set oven to 375°F. (for the sauce) In a Dutch oven, a large oven-safe pot with a heavy bottom, or a casserole dish with a lid, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook until lightly browned. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook until browned. Add the stock and scrape up any bits on the bottom of the pot. Add the passata/tomato sauce, paprika, sugar, fish sauce, red pepper flakes, and vinegar. Stir well and reduce heat to low. (assembly) To roll, take a cabbage leaf and use a paring knife to trim the main rib so it is level with the leaf, not cutting through all of the way. Face the cabbage leaf with the rib facing you and the “cup” of the leaf facing up. Load 2-3 tbsp of the meat mixture (basically as much as you can fit without making a mess) on the closest part of the leaf to you. Roll the rib side over the meat, keeping everything as tight as possible. Roll the sides inwards, then continue to roll until you have a firm log. Set aside and repeat until you finish off the meat. If you get to the smaller leaves, you may need to stack two side-by-side, overlapping them to roll. Ladle 3/4 of the tomato sauce out of the pot into a waiting container. Nestle the rolls in tightly, stacking them if need be. Pour over the reserved tomato sauce, cover the pot and transfer to the oven for 40 minutes. Remove the lid, baste the upper rolls with sauce, and cook for another 20-30 minutes. Serve with sour cream and chopped fresh dill. Enjoy!
