(Photo courtesy of Adam Berkelmans)
November 13, 2024
By Adam Berkelmans
Print Recipe
I’ve gotten the sense over time that pasta carbonara is one of those sacred dishes; the kind that when someone alters it a bit they catch a load of… constructive criticism online. It’s to the point where I’m almost a little nervous about showcasing an altered carbonara recipe like this one. Duck?! Are you CRAZY?
Here’s an interesting little factoid though: pasta carbonara is a relatively new dish, and not entirely Italian. Say what?
Though, like many treasured dishes, the origins are a little murky, most culinary historians agree that there was no carbonara before World War II. Many think that it was actually the Americans, while liberating Rome, who brought bacon and eggs into the city that helped create carbonara. A simple dish of powdered egg yolks, spaghetti, cured pork, and hard cheese combined to make a dish that American soldiers loved, and just like that, carbonara was born.
In fact, the very first recipe for carbonara actually appeared in a cookbook in Chicago in 1952, and get this, carbonara was often made with cream in Italy in the 1980s. This is all to say that the original dish should definitely be given its due, but maybe we should hold back the torches and pitchforks when someone tries something new with it!
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Serves: 4Prep Time: 15 MinutesCook Time: 1 Hour
Ingredients:
0.5lbs guanciale or pancetta, diced 0.5-1.0lbs wild duck breasts, skin on Kosher salt 1lb rigatoni 1 egg 5 egg yolks 8 oz Pecorino cheese, grated Freshly cracked black pepper Directions:
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Using a sharp paring knife, prick or score the fat on the duck breasts to facilitate rendering, being careful not to cut into the meat. Salt both sides of each duck breast generously, then lay them fat side down in a skillet. Set the heat to medium and press down on the breasts firmly for a minute or two so they don’t buckle. Cook for (approximately 4 minutes for small breasts, 8 minutes for large), then flip and cook 1-2 minutes for small, 3-4 minutes for large. We’re looking for medium-rare here, so about 125-135°F internal temperature. Take the duck out of the skillet to rest for 10 minutes. Cut into small cubes. Meanwhile, pour off the majority of the fat in the skillet (leaving about a tablespoon or so), keeping it for another purpose. Add the guanciale to the skillet and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until the fat has rendered out and the guanciale is browned. Take off the heat. While the guanciale is cooking, heat a pot of salted water to boiling. Add the rigatoni and cook al dente as per package directions. Add the egg and yolks to a large bowl and beat with a whisk or fork. Once the pasta is done, add it, the duck breast, the Pecorino cheese, the cooked guanciale plus its rendered fat, as well as about 1/4 cup of the pasta water to the beaten eggs. Toss the noodles in the sauce for about one minute, or until a creamy consistency occurs. Add more pasta water in small increments if necessary to achieve this. Add lots of fresh black pepper and taste for salt. Add if needed. Serve immediately with more cheese grated on top. Enjoy!